![]() It allows you to enter your square footage and know exactly how much mudding you’ll need to get the job done right. The drywall mud calculator does just that. For whatever project you plan on tackling, you need to have a good estimate for materials so that you can budget accordingly. The quick set drywall compound allows of better time management on quicker jobs, while lightweight compound is an easy apply or sand alternative and all purpose is the best choice for any texture work since it tends to hold up better. They have different advantages for different jobs and range in price as well as application. This will also give you perfectly smooth walls that won't crack and a feeling that your not hiding a mess in your walls.We have three major types of drywall compound to choose from lightweight joint compound, quick set joint compound and the all purpose compound. You can also add low voltage through the house which (if you're a tech nerd like me) may be a nice plus. This solution is costly, time consuming, and messsssy! But, the upside is that you can fix/update your electrical to be safer, and more suitable to modern appliances. If I was going to be living in this house for the rest of my life, I would consider a full update, especially if I was already going to be making changes to wiring. This will help eliminate waviness in the wall where the texture might be outrageous (like it was in my house), and allow you to use a thinner drywall.Ī possible major downside to this is electrical boxes? Maybe someone with more electrical knowledge can speak whether adding 1/2 inch thickness to a wall would cause issues with the electrical boxes being set further in? If so, again, I would sand and use 1/4 inch. I would still use a 60 grit paper or paint scraper (if it will cut through your texture) and knock down as much of the heavy texture to allow the drywall to sit closer to the surface. This will eliminate the cracking issues and will give you as smooth a wall as you like, with little mess in comparison to skim coating the entire wall. Using a thin drywall layer over the top may be a quicker and cheaper solution. But, in my case, I know my drywall is sound and not cracking underneath, so I could reliable coat without having to worry about patching too much in the future. It took several coats to get perfectly smooth, and a whole lot of cleaning afterward. ![]() ![]() I then skim coated with drywall mud to smooth out the walls. I decided for the first room that I would use a heavy 60 grit paper to remove as much of the larger chunky texture as I could. I recently bought a condo that had nasty texture as well on the walls which I wanted to get rid of. Even if you use a harder more durable mud or plaster, it will still most likely crack because of the age of your house, and the fact that your walls are already cracking (and will probably continue to do so). Skim coating over the plaster that is already cracking would not be a good idea. ![]() Here's my take on drywall vs skim vs full update. Our ceilings are also textured and we'd like to smooth them out, but I feel better about throwing drywall up over the plaster there. Which should I do, and what are the relative pros and cons of each? Something about putting the drywall over the plaster makes me uneasy. This is somewhat related to this question but rather than being a single crack we're talking about most of the walls in a 1400 sq ft home, built in 1925. In addition we are going to be doing quite a bit of rewiring (removing knob and tube) and there are plenty of places where the plaster is cracking, so there is some repair work to be done beyond just skim coating the plaster in places. He also thought it'd be cheaper and quicker to do so. We originally wanted to skim coat the walls to smooth them out, but a contractor suggested that we could put up drywall over it instead since we have some room to give on our baseboards and trim. Our new house has textured plaster walls that my wife and I don't like.
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